Like the literary season with its flood of captivating books, each month of September is accompanied by its share of anti-aging treatments. This year, the brands are storming with inventiveness. If the key molecules (retinol, vitamin C, hyaluronic acid, niacinamide) hold the spotlight more than ever, they are skilfully dosed, combined with plant extracts obtained by biotechnology and green chemistry, or developed in partnership with the largest laboratories. of research.
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Vitamin C remains a safe bet
As a star molecule or as a reinforcement of other active ingredients, vitamin C is the essential substance. For a long time it was difficult to stabilize and therefore its effectiveness was not guaranteed until the end of the tube. This is no longer the case and if we appreciate it so much, it is because it has many advantages. Fairly well tolerated, it acts on radiance, then on dark spots and wrinkles if you are diligent. And above all, it is a powerful antioxidant that protects the skin from free radical attacks, and therefore from ageing.
What’s new this year? The new compositions contain up to 15% vitamin C. This can be pure, and released at the time of application, or based on a derivative to remain active for a long time, or even formulated with a mixture of the two, as in Esthederm.
Retinol makes plant emulators
After being neglected due to its potentially irritating effect, this powerful anti-ageing agent, always acclaimed by dermatologists, is back in favor. The brands have found the right dose and the right galenic for it to be better tolerated. We can note that it is antioxidant, anti-imperfections, anti-wrinkle, that it smoothes the skin texture thanks to its slightly exfoliating effect and that it even acts on hyperpigmentation!
What’s new this year? When it is not retinol itself, pure and dosed between 0.2 and 0.3%, it is its alter egos of plant origin that invite themselves into the formulas. There are thus powerful anti-wrinkles such as samphire, a plant from the Atlantic coast, at Jonzac. And, of course, bakuchiol, which has the same chemical form as retinol. Better tolerated, it is ideal for sensitive skin.
Plants flirt with biotechnology
Today, we seek above all to obtain new plant extracts without exhausting the natural resource, while preserving the environment and even managing to give these active ingredients a power and concentration that they do not have in nature. . Everything is now reasoned and controlled, from the method of sampling which does not damage the plant to the techniques of transformation by green chemistry, without solvents and with the least possible waste, these being then transformed into mulch or energy.
What’s new this year? At Patyka and L’Oréal Paris, we cultured in bioreactors active cells of angelica leaves in one, of peony buds in the other, to draw dedifferentiated cells from them – native cells, n having no leaf or seed characteristics. By stimulating them with the right culture medium, they are encouraged to produce certain key molecules in excess. These innovative green biotechnologies make it possible, from the removal of a few cells from a plant, to obtain a large quantity of active ingredients that respect the environment, are reproducible and have greater efficiency than a conventional plant extract. This is the future of plant-based cosmetics.
Cosmetics strengthens its links with medicine
The active ingredients of our treatments are often identical to those of well-known drugs, such as salicylic acid, anti-acne and the key molecule of aspirin. The brands are moving up a notch by joining forces with prestigious research laboratories (Inserm, Harvard, etc.) to study cell longevity and tackle the problem of anti-aging at the root in order to treat its causes. , and not only the consequences.
What’s new this year? Caudalie works with David Andrew Sinclair, professor of genetics at Harvard Medical School, nicknamed the « longevity doctor », and discoverer of the benefits of resveratrol on the youthfulness of cells. Avène collaborates with Pr Jean-Marc Lemaitre, research director at Inserm, world specialist in aging. He discovered that senescent cells are not only no longer active, but above all that they spread aging around them. However, high-dose niacinamide delays their onset of senescence and avoids this “contagious effect”.